Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and travelers alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, Unesco designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a prestigious group of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it joins a global network of cities cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound culinary traditions and lively gastronomic culture," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this historic city comes as little surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the limelight for what has consistently characterized its heart: an immense love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, perfected, and elevated to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on countless corners, there are small establishments and carts – lesser-known gems that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and involved. The artisan beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however note that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people worldwide to learn these tales and travel to the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
